Wednesday, March 6, 2024

Whiteness and farmers markets

 I agree with the notion that to recreate real, tangible change that actually moves our society forward, organic food and alternative agriculture need to be widespread and inclusive. It needs to directly challenge conventional agriculture and commercialized food rather than just provide a gatekept, predominantly white and upper-class "alternative niche," as Alkon says. It needs to move beyond a space for the white, liberal, "eco-conscious" elite to collective action and a sustainable, anti-racist and anti-classist movement. The section of "performances of whiteness" was especially touching--mostly because I realized that some of the phrases such as "buying locally" and "supporting local farmers" which tend to enforce ideas of white farmers as the standard are phrases that I frequently use. I certainly have a natural bias in my head for farmers being white--this is due to growing up in a predominantly white area, as well as being exposed to these alternative food markets frequently as a child (where almost everyone else was white). It became the norm for me. I certainly tend to romanticize the "toils" of the rural, alternative farmer. However when I picture what this farmer looks like in my mind...he is usually male and white. It is important to recognize this bias that MANY of us have to break down our preconceptions shaped by society. 

We also need to acknowledge the ways that farming and land ownership have been purposefully exclusive to many people of color. When people of color are included in food production, it is a marginalized labor force. The south, for example, used African Americans as slaves and then underpaid, exploited laborers after slavery ended. The west had Asian and now Latino immigrants as an oppressed working class that was purposefully, racially marginalized to ensure cheap labor & to deny these people human/working rights. White farmers are seen as heroes in the community, working hard to provide us with healthy, nutritious food. Their occupation garners respect from society. Minority farmers and farm laborers, however, are seen as uneducated, underskilled, and, in the case of immigrants, "invaders" of this country's precious, white spaces. However, as Alkon points out, most of the food produced at farmers markets are not done directly by the white farmer and his family. Instead, many minority farm laborers are employed to plant, harvest, package, etc the products being sold at farmers markets. Despite this, you rarely ever see Latino growers at these alternative food markets. But, due to the notion that you are buying "directly from the farmer" at farmers markets, this enforces the idea of the organic, smallholding farmer as white. I am guilty of this myself--before reading this article, I did have the notion that those selling the food (and being "the face" of the farm/company) are the ones directly responsible for producing the food. I almost can't blame myself and other white people who have this idea--the marketing techniques for farmers markets purposefully capitalize on this myth to attract customers. 

All in all, I think it is incredibly important that we deconstruct our views of farmers markets and alternative food movements as a white space. We also need to make an effort to support minority owned organic businesses. For regen/sustainable ag to move forward, it cannot move forward as an exclusionary, elite movement. It needs to be accessible for all people and communities. 

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